Skincare terms you should know. A primer on today’s most popular ingredients, treatments, and more.
We all know it’s important to read labels. But what happens when those labels read like…well, gibberish? Raise your hand if words like “ascorbic acid” and “jojoba” make your head spin. Me too, girl. Me too.
That’s why I’ve put together a go-to guide for all those tricky terms. Go ahead and pin this page now for future use! From A-Z, we’ve got you covered:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf: Aloe barbadensis leaf is the most popular form of the aloe species. The leaf, also known as aloe vera, moisturizes and protects skin.
It’s most commonly found in topical solutions.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA): Alpha hydroxy acids* are naturally occurring acids found most commonly in plants, but also in some animal products. AHAs remove the top layer of dead skin cells, improving the look and texture of skin.
*AHAs include citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid.
Arginine: Arginine, an amino acid found in both skin collagen and keratin, is a key ingredient in the prevention of aging skin. Arginine and synthetic versions are available in topical products and oral supplements.
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): Ascorbic acid is the topical form of antioxidant vitamin C. Ascorbic acid improves the brightness of the skin and corrects damage from photoaging. Bijou tip: Skin needs time to absorb vitamin C; wait two to three minutes after applying vitamin C before reaching for your next product.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA): Beta Hydroxy Acids pack such a punch.
they address signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and enlarged pores.
Blue Light: Blue light is a shade of light naturally produced by the sun and artificially produced by technology (like computers and phone screens). While some blue light exposure is considered good for your health, prolonged exposure can cause photo-aging.
Chondrus Crispus: Chondrus Crispus, a type of seaweed, is rich in beta-carotene, peptides, and antioxidants. This ingredient simultaneously hydrates skin while providing a protective barrier against environmental stressors.
Differin Gel: Differin gel contains retinoid adapalene 0.1 percent, an ingredient used for clearing pores and treating acne. This product is available in most drugstores.
Double Cleanse: Double cleansing refers to washing the face twice; first with an oil-based cleanser and then with a water-based cleanser.
Eczema: Eczema, the most common skin disorder, is a condition of the skin that includes scaly, red patches around the neck, eyes, knees, and elbows. People with eczema have sensitive skin and need to avoid harsh chemicals, scents, or other ingredients.
Essence: Essences are water-like substance used to prepare skin for follow on products such as serums and facial oils. While less popular in American beauty, this is a quintessential step in Korean skincare routines.
Exfoliate: Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of the epidermis. Exfoliation can be done chemically, using acids, or physically, using a grainy textured product.
Free Radicals: ‘Free Radicals’ is a catch-all term for molecules that damage cells, reflecting in the diminished tone and shape of one’s skin. These molecules are the by-product of pollution, cigarette smoke, sunlight, and other external environmental factors.
Glycolic Acid: Glycolic acid is a type of AHA that exfoliates the skin and improves skin texture.
Humectant: Humectant refers to any type of ingredient that moisturizes skin by pulling water from the atmosphere into the surface of the skin.
Hyaluronic Acid: Here at Bijou, we love hyaluronic acid. This humectant, formed from sugar molecules, helps lock in your skin’s moisture. As a result, you’ll see hydrated and plump skin instantly after use.
Hyperpigmentation: Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of the skin triggered by an event. These events may include wounds, acne, hormone release, and certain prescription drug use.
Jojoba Oil: Jojoba oil comes from the seeds of jojoba plants. It mimics your body’s natural oils and helps to hydrate skin.
Lactic Acid: This type of AHA exfoliates gently, meaning its safe for sensitive skin too. Read more about lactic acid here.
Melanin: Melanin gives color to hair, eyes, and skin. If a person has more melanin, his or her hair, eyes, and skin will be darker the color.
Micellar Water: Micellar water, a combination of water, hydrators, and mild surfactants allows you to wash your face without using water. Micellar water proves it is an excellent choice for acne-prone skin because it thoroughly cleans without stripping skin.
Microneedling: Microneedling, also known as derma rolling, is a treatment where tiny needles pierce the skin to force the body’s natural healing process. The purpose of micro-needling is to improve skin tone and texture. You can buy at-home tools or see a professional for a more intensive treatment.
Pentylene Glycol: Pentylene glycol is a synthetic ingredient used to treat dry skin. It’s a popular ingredient in many moisturizers due to its humectant properties.
Peptides: Peptides, short chains of amino acids, are protein fragments used to help repair skin. Peptides stimulate collagen production and create plump, firm skin.
PH: Remember this one from high school? PH is the measure of acidity or alkalinity in a substance. Water, a 7, is neutral. Skin varies between 4.5 to 5.5.
Phytic Acid: Phytic acid, also known as phytate, stems from plant seeds. The acid offers antioxidant properties that protect against free radicals to prevent skin aging.
Plant Extracts: Plant extracts are any substances containing the desirable properties of a plant. Extracts are generally taken from the tissue lining of the plant.
Retinols: Retinols are a form of vitamin A; they assist in collagen production and skin cell turnover. The Food and Drug Administration limits the over-the-counter Retinols to 1% of active ingredients.
Rosacea: Rosacea is a skin condition characterized by redness of the skin, flushed skin, and facial acne. Rosacea cannot be cured, only treated.
Salicylic Acid: Salicylic acid is a type of BHA found in acne treatments, face washes, and chemical peels.
Sebum: An oily, waxy substance secreted by the sebaceous glands, sebum naturally lubricates the skin and hair. Excess sebum production is responsible for clogged pores and acne.
Serum: Serums are highly potent, viscous substances used to deliver specialty ingredients to the skin. For example, you could have a vitamin c serum.
Sodium Hyaluronate: Sodium hyaluronate restores the skin’s moisture barrier, resulting in more youthful skin. While similar to hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate works at a much deeper level.
Stearyl Alcohol: Stearyl Alcohol, a fat, lends moisturizers and some cleansers a smooth, silky texture.
Squalane: Squalane (not to be confused with ‘squalene,’ a natural product produced by the sebaceous glands in humans), is an animal or plant-produced oil. It serves the same purpose of squalene: hydration.
Sulfate: Sulfates are used in cleansers and create the lather effect we associate with soaps and shampoos. Due to their harsh cleaning properties, sulfates are recommended for those with dry or sensitive skin.
Sulfur: Sulfur doesn’t smell great, but the ingredient treats inflammation, acne, and clogged pores. It’s very inexpensive and can be ordered from any drugstore.
Witch Hazel: Witch hazel is a natural product made from bark. It includes tannins, making it a go-to ingredient for toners and aftershave lotion. It’s gentle on the skin and pleasant for all skin types.
Zinc Oxide: Zinc oxide is the main ingredient found in mineral sunscreen. It helps protect against photoaging like wrinkles, fine lines, and sunspots.
Did we leave something out? Drop us a line in the comments and we’ll make sure to look it up for you.
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